Serengeti to Lake Manyara

Our journey as a big group has just ended. We are in the parking lot waiving our final goodbyes to our new friends. They will be boarding one of the small planes soon to fly back to Kilimanjaro airport. I wonder if the runway is smoother than these Serengeti roads. We really don't have much idea of what our adventure today will be. We have a new driven Solomon - they call him King Solomon. He was actually the guide who found the black rhino the day before. We realize as we pull out of the parking lot that our game drive will be in the Serengeti. For some reason I was thinking we were going back to the Crater. Solomon drives us directly to this amazing little watering hole where there a lot of zebras getting a drink and cooling off. He points to some lions just off in the bushes. One of them is stalking the zebras. We watch with great anticipation as she makes her way down through the reads. The zebras sense her presence and start running. She strikes to soon and they all get away. Solomon tells us she is young. He can tell because she still has some faint spots on her fur. The inexperience cost her a nice breakfast. We watch for a few more minutes and then drive on. He takes us looking for a leopard. We wind around on the way to the leopard and find another pair of lions resting near a tree by the road. We watch them for a bit and then make our way down the road. Shortly he stops again and points to a tree in the distance. There is a leopard in the tree with her gazelle "breakfast" dangling from a branch. She had a good morning. We watch for a few minutes before driving on. Further down the road we see a hyena walking along with a gazelle hanging from her mouth. Solomon explains that the hyena has probably gotten the gazelle from a cheetah. Cheetahs are afraid of hyenas. Lots of buzzards are hanging out waiting for their turn in the food chain. We watch while the hyena eats a little and then abruptly gets up and starts heading off in to the grasses with the food. We are trying to figure out why. Then we suddenly see why. Up ahead in the distance we see a lion walking toward us. She is coming to take the gazelle from the hyena. She makes her way over to the grasses where we saw the hyena disappear. We can't see the action but the grass is moving around busily. Suddenly the hyena comes sulking away - no more gazelle. Lion is king of the Serengeti. The Cheetah makes the kill, loses to the hyena who loses to the lion and eventually the buzzards will get some too. Well that's part of the circle of life here.

We continue driving around looking for lions but the afternoon is bearing down on us. It is very dusty and we are getting tired. We eat our box lunches and start to fade. We find another lion of in the distance near the Kopje's but she isn't moving. We watch for a while but then start to make our way back to the back entrance/exit. We stop for our check out procedure and grab a few beers and some chips. After knocking back and beer John, Sierra and Monique seem to dose off and on while we make our way back through the Olduvai Gorge. I nod off a few times myself. I am tired. Its a long drive back and the road is even dustier than I remember. I have my buff pulled over my face for a good portion of the day. As we make our way back up the Crater road we see a Land Cruiser that has been in an accident. It looks like it rolled over the edge. There are lots of people standing around but it looks like it has already been taken care of and the occupants have already been taken away. The front glass was broken so I hope they were not injured badly. No way to know though. After another couple of hours we are out of the Crater area and back on the road to Lake Manyara. This was the area of the Iraqw people (see earlier blog entry). Finally we make a left off onto a dirt road. There are a number of shacks along the road side and I joke to Monique and Sierra that they can have the one with the roof. I guess its not really nice to make a joke like that when so many in Africa have such poor living conditions. We round a corner and arrive in front of our lodge surrounded by lush trees. It is a very peaceful looking setting.

Again the porters take our bags. We are escorted to a two story building with a thatch roof where are rooms are next to each other. We each have a balcony. Ours looks out on to the Lake down below in the distance. It is a salt water lake and still pretty even though much of it is dry right now. We decide to meet for drinks at 7. A shower is definitely in order to wash off all the dust from today. I think this was the winner in terms of dust but then that's probably not true. Summit day was probably the winner in terms of dust, well, who knows, there is so much dust here every day could be the winner!

All cleaned up John and make our way down to the bar a little early. It really is a beautiful setting here. Would have been nice to stay here for a day or two. They have a bicycle excursion in to town or an option to tour with a local farmer. Too bad we don't have more time. I feel like I am watching the last sands go through the hour glass. It is almost over. We enjoy the gentle night breeze with a glass of wine. The bar and restaurant are open air with a full view of the Lake Manyara Park below. It is so relaxing sitting here talking about our trip and how much fun we've had. Sierra and Monique arrive and we toast each other and the day. This was our best day on safari with the ballon ride to start and the action of the lion hunting and seeing the leopard and hyena. We've seen it all and didn't feel so rushed today. It was more relaxing. We talk a little about plans when we go back home. Monique has a dream for a neuro-wellness center which I love! We talk about it and how great it would be to have them in Colorado. I am keeping my fingers crossed but either way I want to help them make it happen no matter where it is.

Its getting late and we decide we better get to our table. There is a huge buffet with lots of choices. I try lots of the different salad options and some fish for dinner. John goes for the pasta! Much of the food has an Indian flare to it here as well. There are also lots of fruits and various desert choices. We eat way to much and drink more wine, lingering because we just don't want the night and the trip to end. We had decide on a 9 o'clock departure to get ourselves back to the Arusha Hotel in time to get bags and get to the airport. Walking back to the room we hear singing in the bar area so we stop and grab a seat. What looks to be some sort of gospel choir is singing and dancing. Their voices are beautiful. As we are sitting there I lean over to Sierra and say how cool it would be if they would sing the song from the mountain - Jambo, Jambo. Just then they start singing the song. I can't believe it! Its miraculous. Just like the entire trip. What a way to end the night. I am trying to upload the video to youtube. Will add a link if I get it figured out. We decide it is time to turn in. We make our way slowly to our rooms. We don't want to say good night. Its gone by all too fast but I am so glad we had this extra day with Monique and Sierra. It has helped us unwind.

Sweat dreams of Africa. One last time.

Tarangerie to Ngorogoro Crater - Thursday, July 21st

Breakfast buffet at Tarangerie and there were elephants walking around just outside. We walked out on the deck with our coffee and watched them for a few minutes. How's that for an amazing start to the day. John was still getting ready so I had breakfast with Suz, Nathan and Jeff. I stopped by the gift shop to pick up some maps. I had tried to bargain with her yesterday but she would only come down to $4/map. I really wanted them so I got 4 maps for $12 - Kili, Tarangerie, the Crater and Serengeti.

After breakfast is was back to the room to grab bags and load up for a game drive on the way out. We spent about an hour and half driving out spotting the usual suspects along the way. We saw buffalo with tick birds on their backs and another buffalo that looked like its tail had been bitten or scratched by a lion. I felt so sorry for him because the birds were picking at it and he couldn't reach them. I could tell it was driving him crazy. He had backed himself into a tree to try to get the birds off of his tail. Our driver said he will end up being somebody's dinner because of the injury. Next we saw a young female with three males competing to be her mate. They were all dancing around each other and when one would give up and walk away the female would go after him. Usia, our guide, said it takes 3 to 4 days before the decision is made but the winner is always the most senior male lion. We saw maribou storks, vultures eating leftovers, a ringed/target Waterbuck, impala, black faced monkeys crossing the road, a beautiful lime green bird called a Fischer's Love Bird, Baboons near a Tamarind Tree, Warthogs, Egyptian Geese, and an Eland (the largest antelope). During the game drive one of our Land Cruisers lost some major part and was having some trouble. Usia called Bushbuck and lined them up to meet us at the turn off to the Crater to give us a new vehicle.

It was a long drive to the Crater. We headed back to the road to Arusha then took a left a road that was built by the Japanese. This was one of the nicest roads we had been on but was getting to the point where it was going to need some maintenance soon. We stopped at the turn off to do the car transfer and hoped that none of the local vendors would see Sierra's smiling face in the window and come knocking.

Back on the road Usia continued talking about the area. The road to the Crater had a fairly well developed town with sidewalks and a number of shops. He told me that this town had sprung up in response the needs of people traveling to see a local healer (5 hours down the road in the middle of nowhere) named Abilikile Mswapili. Abilikile makes a tea from the root of the mugariga tree. He is a retired Lutheran Minister who says than an angel came to him and told him to make the tea and it would heal people. He is said to cure Diabetes, Aids, High Blood Pressure and Cancer. He has become very famous and people come from all over Africa and other parts of the world to see him. He charges something like 50 cents for a cup of the tea and sees over 3,000 people per day. There is even and article in the New York Times about him. I looked him up after I got home. After I told the rest of the group about this at lunch some of them asked their guides about him. One of the other guides, Carlos, said he had been to see him for a fungus he had that wouldn't go away. He said he drank the tea, his hands turned white (he was black) and then the fungus went away. I guess his hands turned black again because I don't remember any of our guides having white hands. Anyway, I find that sort of stuff really fascinating. Plants have really powerful properties. This conversation started me searching through one of Usia's guide books and looking at what the various trees and plants were used for - they listed uses such as after childbirth (I guess to induce the afterbirth), for abortion, for piles (hemorrhoids), stomach problems, diarrhea, to stop bleeding, and on and on. I guess that the plants of Africa are much like the Amazon rainforest - there are many medicinal properties.

Next we drove past Lake Manyara, a vast salt water lake and it currently pretty low on water. Here the landscape was lush with trees as we are going up to higher elevation. Its also an area where there is a lot of farming. The people that farm the area are known as the Iragw and they came to Tanzania from Ethiopia. The Masai are enemies of the Iraqw. For many the Masai were always trying to kill the Iraqw and they would hunt them down. One way that the Masai found where the Iraqw were hiding was from listening for their crying babies. So the Iraqw started making cuts under their babies eyes so that the salt from the tears would burn when they cried and that would teach them not to cry. So Usia says that many Iraqw have lines/scars under their eyes from this practice. Now the Masai and the Iraqw do not fight each other. He didn't really elaborate on this.

The Iragw are big farmers. They were growing a lot of corn, sunflowers (for the oil) and some other crops. They also had a few animals but pretty much stay away from cattle because that's the Masai's main animal. There is also quite a bit of Mexican thistle along the road. Usia said that this came in with some of the fertilizer that was purchased from Mexico. Nothing like spreading weeds through the global economy.

We stopped at another souvenir shop along the roadway and I bought a few things for the kids. I really hate the process of haggling and the dishonesty that goes along with it. The girl told me if I would pay her under the table she would give me a better price. How's that for honesty. Imagine trying to run a business under those circumstances. The accountant in me has been going nuts since we got to this place trying to figure out how anybody could possibly run a business - keep inventory and know profit margins. Its just impossible.

Back on the road our car went ahead to pay the park fees while the others stayed behind for more shopping and haggling. When we got to the entrance of Ngorogoro Usia parked the Land Cruiser and we sat and waited. He left his window rolled down. I was sitting in the passenger seat taking a picture of the sign. I heard a commotion from everybody else in the car and I turned around to find a large baboon leaning into the drivers side window. Just as I looked at him he jumped down in to the drivers seat. Lucky for me Doug shouted at him and he jumped back out of the car. I didn't know but they are apparently very aggressive so I was lucky he didn't try to grab me or any of my cameras or food. That was pretty exciting for a few minutes.

We used the loo while waiting for Usia to pay and the other cars to arrive. As we were sitting there Usia saw that we had a flat tire. He changed that tire faster than a NASCAR pit crew. We were amazed. Later we would learn more about why they are so fast with the tire changing.
Finally we started driving to the lodge along the Crater ascent road. We were running behind, as usual. By now we were really in a lush area with heavy vegetation but the red dirt from the road was covering everything so it wasn't that pretty along the road. Of course, we still had about an hour or more to go before we got to the lodge. We could see game trails through the vegetation along the roadside. As we were driving we saw a car pulled over on the side of the road getting out chairs and setting up a picnic. Usia said that was a very bad idea because the animals roam all around the road area and a lion could just walk up while you are sitting there eating.

We finally made it to the turn off to the road going up to Sopa Lodge. Just then Usia realized that we had another flat tire. We were stopped in the middle of the road right at the turn off and there were two more Land Cruisers coming behind us. We all jumped out and he asked someone to go down to the turn and flag down the other cars so they didn't come around the turn and hit us. Nan and John walked down to the turn just as one of the cars was coming. They started waiving at the car and our people in the other car were waiving at them and telling them to hurry and get back in the car. By that time Doug and Usia had finished changing the tire. We drop the last few miles up to the lodge. Then we found out that there had been a lion in the road just around the turn. Guess that's why the guides are so fast with the tires. Better be fast or get eaten!

We stepped in to the lodge and were greeted by the warm towels to wash off the dust, friendly porters in African dress and a magnificent view of the Crater below. A thick haze hung in the air partly obscuring the majesty of it but it was still spectacular. We were scurried in to the dining room and seat at several big tables. John and I sat with Lori, Connie, Mickey, April, Neal, Kristy and Susie. I had a vegetable curry dish that was delightful. John got some sort of wrap that he said was wonderful too. He also had a salad with these fabulous avocados. After tasting it I had to ask them to bring me one as well.

We didn't realize that the Crater closes earlier than the other parks so we had to rush out the door again in order to get the game drive in. As we drive down in to the Crater we leave the lush vegetation and are back to the arid plains. The drought that has been going on since the late 90's is really taking its toll. I don't know what it was like before the drought but it is very dry now and reminds me of a very dry summer in Colorado. Everything in the floor of the Crater is brown and the river is just a trickle except in a few spots where the hippos are soaking. I wonder what this place is like during the rainy season when everything is green. According to Usia they used to have about 3-4 months of rain. Now they are lucky to get a month or so. Africa has always had problems with patterns of drought but this has been over ten years. Even so, the animals in the Crater seem more numerous than they were in the Tarangerie. The herds are much larger. We saw large herds of buffalo, zebra and gazelle but fewer elephants. This was our first view of the hippos in the hippos pool. They are actually pretty boring because they are so sedentary. They just sit in the water with only their backs visible so it is really hard to see them. They look like big rocks except when they poke their noses up to take a breath. They are supposed to be one of the most dangerous animals in Africa. More people die being attacked by hippos than any other wild animal. Go figure, they look so tame floating in the water.

There are approximately 30 black rhinos in the Crater. We are searching for one of these rhinos since we have seen a lot of the other animals at Tarangerie. Usia says that morning is a better time to find the rhino. The black rhino is one of the rarest animals in the world. There are only about 4,000 in the wild and just 50 or so in Tanzania. The others are in the Serengeti. The black rhino is hunted for its horn which is used in a Chinese aphrodisiac and to make certain highly prized daggers in the Middle East. A poacher who kills a black rhino would make more money than they would otherwise make in their entire lifetime. This makes the protection of the rhino quite difficult. I wonder how they even get rangers that are honest enough to protect the rhino since the culture is generally not one of honesty. It really is a miracle that there are any left at all.

We drive around in search of this elusive animal until it is nearing time to leave the park but we don't see one. Just as we are heading back, Usia spots a cheetah in the grass out in the distance. We stop and pull out the binoculars. You can just see her head above the waves of grass blowing in the wind. We watch her but she ducks down and becomes harder to spot. Just then a park ranger drives up and talks to Usia in Swahili. They drive off and head for the open plain where the cheetah is. The ranger is driving out to stir up the cheetah so we can see her better. At first, she pays no attention to the truck. Finally, they drive right up next to her. She lazily gets up looks at them and turns to walk away in the opposite direction of our car. She is beautiful. Her movements are elegant and powerful as she saunters through the grasses off to another quiet spot. We bid her fairwell and head back up the hill to the Crater Lodge.

We also saw a lot of birds and I also asked about some of the plants in the Crater. Of course, there are acacia trees - they are everywhere in Africa. We the Albizia gummifera or Peacock Flower Tree which has a flat wide crown and sodom apples. We saw a large bird called a Kori Bustard, tiny seed eater birds, bee eaters, crowned crane pairs, firefinch (black bellied), an African marsh harrier eating its prey, black shoulder kite (raptor), Hartlaub's Turaco and a speckled mousebird ( a bird with a very long tail).

Back at the lodge we cleaned up and I walked out to the patio for a drink. Lots of the group were already out walking and sitting around the area enjoying the view of the beautiful sunset. Jeff was set up with is tripod on the lawn ready to catch the perfect sunset photograph. I sat down on a lawn chair to enjoy a glass of wine but the sunset quickly. As soon as the sun dipped below the horizon the temperature dropped and I headed in to the bar with Mickey. We pulled some couches and chairs together and the whole group started coming in to the bar. We had a late dinner seating (8pm) so we all enjoyed catching up over a Kili beer or a glass of wine. Brandis was trying to book her add on to Zanibar with Mickey and Sarah but the internet connection wasn't cooperating. Honestly, I am shocked they even have internet at all given the poor infrastructure in the country.

Now that we've been in the cars for two days we are all getting a bit tired. This lodge would be a perfect place to just prop your feet up for a few days and enjoy the scenery without having to rush around. Exhaustion is setting in and I think we are all missing the group camaraderie of the climb. We now spend most of our days in the car and the roads make it difficult to have much of a conversation. Add to that we are with the same smaller group each day. The dinner tables are also smaller so we are missing the big group dinner table. But this is still wonderful.

We head in to the dining room and are seated at three tables. I forgot to write down what I ate this night but I seem to recall there was a traditional African dish on the menu. I don't think anyone at our table tried it. The food at every meal has been excellent and I am pretty sure if I lost any weight on the mountain I am gaining it back in these lodges. After dinner its off to bed again because we have another early start with a long drive to the Serengeti through the Oldavai Gorge. This is where Lucy, the missing link, was found.

We walk out of the main building to go to our room and are greeted by a guard. She walks us to our room. I ask her if that is to protect us from the animals. She says, yes, there are no fences and the animals often roam around the property at night. I wonder if they like the water in the swimming pool but I don't ask.

Lights out after another fantastic day in Africa.

Sarfari - Arusha to Tarangerie

I woke up at 5:30am so I went ahead and took another shower and went down to breakfast. John got up when I got out of the shower and was rushing around thinking he was running late until I told him it was barely 6 and we weren't leaving until 9. He stayed in the room for a bit and finished organizing his stuff.

The dining room was mostly empty except for a table of two guys who were obviously in town to climb Kili. I was listening to their conversation being worried about altitude sickness. I decided to mind my own business and not tell them anything.

John arrived at breakfast and then Jeanne and Jeff joined us. It was nice to spend some time with Jeanne since we hadn't been together much on the mountain. She's a teacher and has known Lori since college. It sounds like they adventure together quite a bit with a third friend of theirs. It takes us about an hour to get a cup of coffee after asking six different people. It starts to be kind of funny. They bring cups but no coffee. We search around but no coffee. Finally we get a prized cup but it is quickly gone. Nathan joins us and we wonder how long it will take him to get a cup. Its hard to believe the climb is over but we are all excited for the safari.

I sit in the lobby surrounded by luggage trying to catch up on my journal from summit day. There is so much to remember. Will I get it all down? I don't want to forget and I know if I don't get it written down soon the details will start to fad. The team kids me for all my writing - every chance I get I am sitting with my little journal. I wonder how others will remember all the details. Maybe they won't. I will share my journal but the experience won't be the same for every person.

Eric comes to send us off, again, without much fanfare. We later learn he was up drinking late in the bar so maybe he's running a little low on juice. We are to be in cars of 6 and we won't rotate. This probably makes sense so that drivers don't miss people or luggage but I am sad because I want to pop around from car to car talking to different people in the group. There are still people I don't feel like I've had enough time with.

We load in to the "Car of Contagion" with our Bushbuck Safari tire covers on the two spares in the back (we will need them later). By this time Doug's cold has spread to Nan, Monique and Sierra. John, Sean and I are also in the car and I am wondering how long it will be before we are sick. I am taking loads of Coptis Chinesis and Emergency and it seems to be warding it off but who knows after 3 more days in a car. I am paranoid. Sanitize, sanitize.

We head off down the road to Tarangerie - we should arrive at the lodge around 2 for a late lunch. Our guide is Usia (pronounced U C Uh). He is very knowledgeable and I ask a lot of questions because John is in the back. He's the one who really likes to talk to the guides/rangers and ask questions. I am sitting up front next to Usia to avoid car sickness. We drive back along the road that we took from the airport and also to the Machame road. The landscape is dry. Corn and sunflowers are growing but they look pretty parched. We pass a military training installation and bombing range. He says all of the area from here to the Tarangerie is owned by the government but can be used by anyone. You have to apply for a permit but they can take the land back later if they need it. So no real private property rights in this area. I think more than half the country is a game preserve/park of some sort. The Masai use this area during the rainy season. This dry time of the year most have taken their cattle up to higher more fertile ground. They have left the older people and some women and children down in this dry area. The land is dotted with their huts - called mayatta. Mayatta are made of sticks covered with cow dung used as a plaster. There is a small hole at the top to let the smoke from cooking out. This construction allows these to be put together and taken apart easily so that the sticks can be moved to build in another location. The Masai are nomads.

Usia tells me in is circumcision time for the Masai. This only happens once every 7 years, if you miss it or chicken out you have to wait another 7 years. You have to be circumcised before you can get married. All the women watch and there is no anesthesia. They are watching to see if a boy flinches, cries or shows any fear. They use the same knife to do them all and don't sanitize it. They cut the skin around to the bottom where the vein is and the they time something around the skin - string or something- tightly to make the skin die and fall off. Kind of like we do the umbilical cord. Anyway, the boys paint their faces and wander around in the wilderness for about 3-6 months until they are healed.

Masai cannot marry unless they have a cow. The number of cows you have determines how many wives you can have. Cows mean wealth.

Usia also tells me about the Masai's eating habits. They mostly eat meat - goat and sometimes beef and they drink blood from the cows. They poke a hole in their neck and drain blood to drink without killing the cow. They don't really eat any vegetables and not much grains. Their gene profile must be modified to handle this sort of diet otherwise I don't see how they could survive with such an unbalanced diet. This makes me understand why Romley asked me on the mountain if I drank blood and also his question about whether or not I had any cows or goats. I guess in his mind we must be rich to afford such a trip and that means we must have lots of cows and goats.

The landscape becomes more barren as we approach Tarangerie. We stop at the Park entrance somewhere around 12:30. There is a bathroom and we all get out and mill around while the guides go to pay the park fees. We have no idea that this takes 30 minutes or longer. Everything is a slow process here. We hear that the TseTse Fly is here and decide we should put on our insect repelent. Later Usia tells me that the smell actually attracts the fly. I guess Deet is only good for mosquitos.

Patience again - finally, we load back in to the trucks and we are off to the lodge doing a game drive as we go. As soon as we enter the park we start seeing our first wildlife - elephants, Masai giraffes (my favorite), and zebras galore. The landscape is dotted with acacia, Boabob and agave. The Baobob Tree is the tree from my favorite book - The Little Prince. I have never seen one before. We see lots of birds along the way as well and I ask about them. We see Magpie Shrike, weaver's nests clustered in the trees, superb starling (beautiful deep blue bird with a red breast), a lilac breasted roller,ground hornbill, absinian (spelling), blacksmith plover, ringed plover, grey headed kingfisher, black-winged stilt, orange bellied parrot and a masai chicken (guinea fowl). I am fascinated by the birds. We find out later that some of the guides make fun of people who ask about the birds. Usia has several great guide books and one has birds in it so I use them to read to the car about what we are seeing. We are trying to rush to get to the lunch buffet before it closes but then we see a mother lion and her cubs on the right side of the road resting under a tree with their kill nearby. We stop for a few minutes to look and take photos. Its exciting to see our first lions. As we leave, driving down the hill and around the bend Usia spots an Eagle Owl up in the tree. We stop again but its hard to get a good picture. We see lots more wildlife in our rush to get to the lodge but we finally quit stopping because we have another game drive at 4.

At the lodge locals are dressed in colorful outfits greeting us at the door. They hand us a warm wet wash cloth to wipe the dust from our face and hands - this is the most common theme of Africa - wiping dust off yourself. We get our room assignments and quickly drop off bags. The buffet is closing in 30 minutes we are told. We are dining outside by the pool. The buffet food is covered with nets to keep the bugs away. We have another delicious meal and a beer. John decides to go to the room and take a nap - I try to catch up on the journal again. Next thing you know it is 4.

We load up again and head out. It seems like there's been no time to rest. We see 2 dik dik - tiny deer like animals that mate for life. They are precious. We see ostrich, male and female. The males are turning pink because it is mating season. We see more zebras, elephants, another family of lions, a steinbok (slightly larger than a dik dik), a jackal, impala everywhere, wildebeast and some buffalo off in the distance. As the sun is setting he takes us around so that we can get a good shot of the sun setting through the acacia tree - the classic African sunset. It is beautiful. Its after 7 when we get back.

Now its back to the room to wash up and get ready for dinner at 8. We clean up and head down to the bar for a drink and some relaxation, we hope, before dinner. We form a big circle as more and more of the group come down and join us. I order the local mosquito repellent drink - something with gin and honey and something I can't remember. It has ice cubes in it which I forget are made with water. Suz points that out and I run outside to dispose of my ice. Bad idea - stick with beer and wine from the bottle! At 8 we head in to the dining room. We have two large tables and one smaller one. We end up at the smaller one with Nathan, Daniel, Monique, Sierra and Tina. More good food. At the end they bring us some sort of chocolate torte cake in the shape of Kilimanjaro and they sing us a song. Its a lot of fun. We are tired after dinner and we turn in.

As we enter our room we are engulfed with the toxic smell of mosquito spray. I am so paranoid about pesticides with John's PD. It freaks me out that we will be sleeping with this fresh fumigation floating all around us. The nets have been pulled around the bed. We climb in and turn out the lights. In an instant we are swallowed by complete darkness. This is something rarely experienced in our world of constant light and activity back home. There is no real darkness. This is a dark that is impenetrable. I can't see my hand in front of my face. Then I say to John, "Listen". He says, "What?" and I say, "Nothing. Its completely silent. There is no sound at all." We are in the middle of nowhere in total darkness and total silence. I savor the moment. I may never have another moment like this in my entire life. Imagine that.